Squeeek-No-More FAQ’s and Installation Tips
First a quick look at how floors are constructed:
Now here are some simple tips and frequently asked questions on how to maximize Squeeek-No-More’s performance...
You will need to first find the joist in order to locate the area to be repaired. You can do this two ways, the first is to use the specially designed joist finding screw and the second is (if you have a forced air heating system) is to use the floor register to locate the joist. You can do this by measuring 8 inches to either side of the center of the register. Once you do that, you should have located the approximate location of the joists.
When using the joist finder screw, you need only insert the screw about 1 1/2 inches. If you’re still biting material, you’ve located the joist and the screw should be removed. If you send the screw all the way down, it proves nothing and may actually shorten the life of the screw.
When using the SNM system, it is imperative that the floor be compressed at the point of insertion. To do this, you need to straddle the fixture with your feet and press down on the fixture as hard as possible. If you feel the need to kneel down to use the drill, you would actually be compressing an area about two feet away from where you should. If this is the case, we recommend that someone else stand in the area while you do the screwing. In the video, this step was omitted for demonstration purposes only.
Here are some frequently asked questions:
My home is only a few years old and it already has squeaky floors. What causes them and can I cure them?
It really doesn’t matter how old your home is - squeaky floors can develop at anytime for just about any reason. Some of the most common include; poor workmanship, inadequate design and improper use of materials, inadequate use of fasteners and something that may surprise you - Mother Nature herself.
The second part of the question is simple, YES you can cure them. However, how much time and effort you spend fixing them is completely up to you.
I can understand poor workmanship and maybe the builder not using enough fasteners, but Mother Nature--please explain!
It’s simple, wood is a very porous material (especially construction grade pine) which continuously expands and contracts with changes in moisture content. With climatic changes constantly occurring (dry winters and humid summers) together with our continual use of heating and air conditioning systems, wood actually expands and contracts on a regular basis, which can cause virtually any fastener to weaken over time. Keeping this in mind, you can actually say that Mother Nature is probably one of the most common reasons squeaky floors develop.
What do I need to do to eliminate my squeaky floors?
Simply speaking, what needs to be done is to permanently re-attach the floor to the joist. Once you recreate the original bond, you stop the floor from moving and you eliminate the squeak.
What are some of the ways to repair squeaky floors?
Squeaky floors can be repaired using shims, cleats, bracing, gluing, re-screwing or a combination of all the above. Or you can simply use Squeeek-No-More when there is no access to the underside of the floor.
If you have access to the joist and sub-flooring, we recommend using the Squeak-Relief product line that works from below the floor.
Shims sound like an easy repair, something I could do in a matter of minutes. Does this method really work?
Not really. When you use a shim and place it between the floor and joist, what you’re actually doing is only filling the gap that caused the squeak. However, you're not really re-attaching the subfloor back to the joist. While this method may appear to fix the squeak, it is usually a short term solution. In addition, if you’re not careful, you could easily insert the shim too deep and actually cause more damage by raising the floor. You could also cause damage to the floor by creating a noticeable "hump" in the floor where the shim was inserted.
When using SNM, will I need to use multiple screws to make the repair?
The answer to that is you probably will. Since the repair is blind and the joist is only 1 1/2 inches wide, the probability that you would hit it dead on is pretty low. That’s the reason extra screw packs are recommended for purchase when anticipating making multiple repairs.
Will the screw stick up through the carpet?
No if you install it correctly by pressing down on the fixture as you install it.
Will the screw pull on the carpet fibers?
It shouldn’t as the screws are coated. In addition, when you position the screw in the carpet, you should use your fingers to open up the weave and position the screws directly into the jute.
How about Berber carpeting?
With Berber, we recommend wrapping the screw with a little scotch tape which will fall off the screw as it’s being screwed in.
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