For Hardwood Squeaky Floor Repair
The key to the Counter-Snap screw fastening system is the specially coated scored screw. The score is one inch from the head. When being driven through the Counter-Snap Fixture, the screw head hits the stop on the fixture causing the stress to build until the screw snaps at the score. The fixture stops the score ¼ of an inch below the surface. After the screw snaps there is 2 inches of screw securing the wood together. The hole that is left is easily concealed with wood filler.
- Easy DIY installation with no special tools required.
- Works on both first floor or second floor repairs.
- Kits are now available for "at" the joist and "between" the joist repair.
- Affordably priced with kits starting as low as $10.95 (with 25 snap off screws included.)
- Recommended for hardwood floors and some softer, more cushiony vinyl floors.
Order the A + B Combo Kit for only $19.95. That's a $3 savings just for ordering at SqueakyFloor.com!
It's Simple, It's Effective And It's Almost Invisible!
As you already know, squeaky floors can be maddening and it's probably one of the most common and most annoying homeowner complaints you’ll hear about. But one thing is certain... with Counter-Snap even the most severe floor squeak can be cured in as little as 60 seconds by anyone who can use a power drill. All it takes is to locate the squeak, insert the patented "snap off" screw into the fixture, drill it down and let it snap off.
Counter-Snap Pro Installation:
Floor squeaks in hardwood floors happen at the joist and in areas between the joists. The best way to stop the squeak is to focus on where the noise is coming from. Place weight on that spot to push the floor and subfloor together. Pre-drill a hole with a 7/64 inch bit to prevent the wood from cracking. Then drive the screw down through the fixture. Then the screw head hits the top of the fixture and the screw snaps at the score that is set ¼ of an inch below the surface.
Things To Know Before You Buy...
There are actually two Counter-Snap screw systems. System A which works at the joist and System B which works between the joists. System A is also a perfect fastener for building decks without having to see screw heads on the surface of the decking.
While both systems "A" and "B" use the same screw technology, each has its own depth control fixture and very unique screws. As you can see by the above views, the Counter-Snap A Kit uses a longer screw with two different thread pitches and a deeper drill fixture. The Counter-Snap-B Kit (which actually uses the same screw as the Squeak-No-More) is somewhat shorter than the Counter-Snap A screw and requires a shallower fixture. The CS-B kit was designed for single layer flooring such as linoleum covered floors and hardwood flooring that may need re-attachment between the joists.
From the outside, both Counter-Snap fixtures look identical, so care should be taken not to mix up the fixtures and screws. Using the wrong screw with the wrong fixture may cause the screws to snap off prematurely or not at all.
Counter-Snap was designed for anyone needing the holding power of a #8 screw but cannot live with the repair hole any larger than a finishing nail. The following graphic shows how the Counter Snap 1/8" hole compares to a #6 and #8 screw hole sizes.
With the Counter-Snap system you actually achieve the maximum results with the smallest possible disruption to the repaired surface. The Counter-Snap fixture automatically snaps the screw 1/4" inch below the floor surface so concealing the tiny hole requires only the smallest amount of matching filler. Minwax sells small putty sticks in various colors which are perfect for concealing the repaired area.
Check out the videos below and see for yourself just how easy and fast it is to make your squeaky floors disappear.
Helpful Installation Tips:
Here are some tips to help familiarize yourself with the difference between using an ordinary screw vs. the Counter-Snap screw.
The first and most important thing you must remember is that these are not your normal screws but were actually designed to snap off by the torque and speed created by the drill. In this regard, whenever drilling in the screw, the drill must be set at the highest speed possible and at the highest torque setting possible. Failure to do so may cause the screw not to break off, resulting in the screw just spinning in the hole. In addition, you should never treat this as a normal screw by stopping or slowing down just before impact with the fixture.
When installing the screws, make sure the floor is compressed at the point of insertion. If you need to kneel down (away from the fixture while drilling) have someone stand straddling the fixture with their feet to assist you in the floor compression process.
While pre-drilling is not always required, if you need to pre-drill, do not use a bit larger than 7/64" (2.7mm) as this may cause the screw to spin in place thus stripping out the hole. Before pre-drilling, we recommend trying to lubricate the screws with a little bar soap to aid in insertion. If you want to have a drill bit on hand when you make your repair, you can always purchase a 7/64" bit with your order.
If you're a first time user, you might want to make a test repair in an inconspicuous area like under a piece of furniture or in a closet.
Do I actually need to buy both kits or could I just buy one fixture and buy extra replacement screws for the second?
Absolutely not! Due to the different design of each screw, there is a different fixture for each. They may look alike from the outside but on the inside, the depth control is different.
Do you recommend buying both kits when ordering?
Most people do and so would I. The kits are pretty inexpensive to purchase and buying the second kit saves you $2 plus postage (if you needed to order at a later date).
Is the hole left after the repair is made difficult to fix?
Not at all. Minwax sells small inexpensive putty sticks of various colors which can be used to fill the small hole left after the repair. Every hardware store will carry them so it shouldn’t be hard to find.
Can Counter-Snap be used for vinyl and linoleum floors?
Sure, but remember you will need to fill the hole with something after the repair. On some cushy linoleum floors, the hole will sometimes disappear by itself as the material may swell back over the hole. If this happens, you might want to add a little crazy glue to the hole to help seal it up. We suggest testing this process in an inconspicuous area such as in a closet or under a piece of furniture.
When using Counter-Snap, will I need to use multiple screws to make the repair?
The answer to that is you probably will. Since the repair is blind and the joist is only 1 1/2 inches wide, the probability that you would hit it dead on is pretty low. That’s the reason extra screw packs are recommended for purchase when anticipating making multiple repairs.
How about parquet flooring carpeting?
Since parguet flooring is made up using a great number of small pieces of wood, we can’t really guarantee the repair, however, not all parquet is created equal so, I’d give it a shot and hope for the best.
Check out these videos to see just how easy and fast it is to fix your squeaky floor.
"Great product, great price, easy to use - I live in a pre-war building in NYC. My floors didn't 'squeak', they screamed. It should be state law for contractors to carry a pocket full of Counter-Snap screws on all renovation jobs. Outstanding service - personally invested!"